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Biber Midget Sub & Support Trailer

Scratching up a trailer for the Biber midget sub.

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Ron Lebert05/01/2017 17:29:31
2379 forum posts
6279 photos

Part two


By making the opening a bit smaller the rework fit's nicely into the fender step, eliminating difficult filling of the fender areas. The blocks were added. Then the opening was measured, a section of sheet plastic was cut to fill the space. Stretched sprue is used as filler.


Here you can see the tie in better.



Double checking the fit & look.



Sanding the area, I still need to get in tight but you can see where we are going with this. The sprue works just like a weld & can be sanded to the profile. If the lager opening was used it would have been difficult to rework.


1943 dak.jpg

.This 7 has the smaller fender cut out .



The exchange pipe was reworked to match our photo.



Then added to the blocks. I will need to connect this to something? I still need to figure that part out.

Well all for today!


Edited By Ron Lebert on 05/01/2017 17:35:35

John Race05/01/2017 17:41:36
7446 forum posts
1538 photos


How on earth do you get such detail? , as for using Stretched sprue, try as I might I end up with either two stumps and a dangley bit in the middle, or a melted mess .How do you heat yours, I am hoping its better than my candle method ?


jimbo05/01/2017 17:47:34
14345 forum posts
2735 photos

Hi Ron

Lovely work as usual. So neat and precise. The photos you are working from, especially the cab interiors, seem clearer than those you often have to work from. The pre-heater modification looks spot on. The dash board detail does indeed look very nice.

One small point I did notice. In the ref photos the left lever is shorter than the one to the right. Your pin replacements look to be of similar length.

Fascinating blog as always.


Blaubar05/01/2017 18:22:24
889 forum posts
666 photos
1 articles

In line with Jim and John.

Always lovely to read through your thorough research, ideas and progress. Spot on detail and great photos.

In general, sources of the pics used would be nice (and rightful to the owner) though.


Ron Lebert05/01/2017 22:40:07
2379 forum posts
6279 photos

Jim, sorry to disappoint but it is the old candle method. The trick is to heat a length of sprue in the centre, then place the heated sprue on your work bench then pull the sprue left to right (with both hands obsessively) as you drag the expanding sprue along the flat bench top; stop @ the required thickness & allow to cool under the stretched tension. The parallel surface produces a perfect pull. Now the thicker the sprue the thicker the stretch will be. This is important for nice thick runs. I did a SBS on this but I can't find it, anyone save it; Jimbo perhaps ?

Jim, just the camera angle.dscn6805.jpg



Stefan I guess that would be nice but WoW! what a job that would be as I post hundreds of photos from the net. This has been discussed on several modelling sites & from what has been posted as long as I don't make money from the posting the photo is public property. I guess sort of like movie stars photo smile d


I have asked for permission in the past & they have responded that I was the first to ever ask for permission. They also replied that as long as I wasn't making money it was cool with them. As from above site.

And not to mention It takes me so long to type with my two sore fingers face 21 & tradesman spelling errorsdont know .



Edited By Ron Lebert on 05/01/2017 22:41:02

jimbo06/01/2017 11:07:10
14345 forum posts
2735 photos

Hi Ron

I knew you would not have got it wrong but the photo was deceptive.

For John - Stretched sprue SBS *HERE* - I had it saved and printed. It is near the bottom of the page.


Ron Lebert06/01/2017 19:12:10
2379 forum posts
6279 photos

Jim, I knew that you would have it some where. The part about stretching the sprue on the bench top is an important addition as it produces a superior pull, resulting in a very straight section of stretched plastic.


Ron Lebert11/01/2017 22:08:59
2379 forum posts
6279 photos

Just a short one today.


The engine was inserted into the frame to check the fit, I cut off two of the locating nibs as they would not allow a nice fit into the frame. The PE lower step detail was added. The upper was left in plastic as it is well finished making the PE replacement part redundant.



I then added the firewall & body were test fitted. You can see how close the ignition magneto is to the firewall. Nothing is glued as it all needs individual painting & finishing.



I needed to add the little T handles to the locker doors. Problem is they are so small that it is almost impossible to trim & sand them flat. So I made a little holding jig to file them flat.



This worked great as you can see how flat they were.

Well time for supper.


jimbo12/01/2017 09:32:55
14345 forum posts
2735 photos

Hi Ron

Handles do look very neat. Your comment about the step PE is one to note - "Just because the PE part is on the fret doesn't make it better" The engine looks superb in its place.


Evan Martin 112/01/2017 10:12:42
846 forum posts
417 photos

Hi Ron, I'm glad to see this thread up again. Your work is a master class of precision. Can't wait to see the finished piece.


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