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Biber Midget Sub & Support Trailer

Scratching up a trailer for the Biber midget sub.

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Ron Lebert21/04/2017 14:36:36
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2194 forum posts
5840 photos

John, so glad to hear that! As for Mickey he doesn't skip on safety. It's nice to be able to have a bit of fun here on MM, some of the sites I visit are so serious.

Loading as you read this.

Ron

Ron Lebert21/04/2017 15:27:02
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2194 forum posts
5840 photos

Part 8

crane close up.jpg

Time to work on the brace bars. As you can see from this shot the upper section of the brace bars connect to a identical D bracket as the lower. The brackets are attached to the lower support spacer that we added earlier. From the photo the brace bars look to be @ a 45* angle, this info gave me my lower spacer location . When you don't have any drawings, careful study of the subject is very important to engineering the correct look/design.

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The brace bars are made from 0.062" / 1.5mm rod. To help with orientation a line was traced along the top of the rod. This is important as it helps in placement of the bars.

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To cut the bars the Lebert adjustable cutter was used. We need four lengths but cut a few extra for the scrap bin. The bars were cut to 38mm.

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The difficult part of the bar construction is to get the locating slot in the very centre of the bar. We need a way to cut the slot parallel & square. We need some sort of jig. Looking @ my leg cutting jig gave me an idea. All I needed to do was but a second section of wood to the first using the saw blade as a spacer. Then drill a hole that the rod would snugly slide into the hole. The orientation on the rod line gives me a position relative to the blade & a line drawn on the jig. The height of the rod sets my depth of cut, 3mm.

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The jig @ work. Only cut the one side for now.

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The blade of the saw is thinner than the required slot of the D brackets. As you can see the slot is slightly off but that works in our favor. We need to widen the slot to match our D bracket.

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Carefully sand the slot toward the centre of the bar. We need a 0.020" / 0.50mm slot to match our D's thickness. To cut the other end pull out the bar & insert it so the bar line is parallel to the jig line. Use your eye to make sure that the two slots will be parallel to each other.

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Post time.

Ron Lebert21/04/2017 15:44:46
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2194 forum posts
5840 photos

Part 9

The photo is slightly out of order.

dscn7099.jpg

With the leg D bracket being on a 10* angle it prevents the upper bracket being a true 90* angle to the beam. So the D's need to be set on a angle to allow everything to line up. To simplify this difficult task simply insert one of the upper D's into the top section of the brace bar. Orientate the gantry so it sits with the legs up in the air (on to it's back). Slip the a bar onto one of the leg D's then rotate the bar to the channel beam rotate the D so it's flat section locates onto the inner support spacer. Then add a bit of glue to the contact area. Allow to dry then locate your bars as needed. Looking @ the photo your bars should orientate as seen above.

I have to go out so all for now.

Ronnerd

Scottie21/04/2017 18:38:02
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5301 forum posts
744 photos
1 articles

Ron,

​always a joy and an education to follow your work. Have you got the details on your cutter as to how you made it.

​Scottie

Blaubar22/04/2017 08:45:48
889 forum posts
666 photos
1 articles

Great progress Ron.

Loving the Lebert jig and all your custom tools :D Always fun to read and have a look at them. No need to comment your superb modelling skills... Beyond limits as always.

Oh, and how are the foxes? Must be out of the den frequently by now?

/Stefan

jimbo22/04/2017 11:24:34
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13277 forum posts
2497 photos

Hi Ron

Very clever the way you solve problems. Cutting the slot is a perfect example.

Jim

Ron Lebert24/04/2017 15:03:41
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2194 forum posts
5840 photos

Hi Scottie, I had a full explanation in one of the blogs, but don't remember which one. Jim always comes to my rescue. Jim if you have the link could you post it, if not I will write up a new description if I can't find it.

Stefan Haven't seen the foxes as of yet. Mom has been sighted, I accidentally scared her away one day using the chain saw, she ran like the wind through the bush.

Jim, thank's; problem solving is half the fun.

Loading as you read.

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Ron Lebert24/04/2017 15:54:19
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2194 forum posts
5840 photos

Let's carry on!

crane legs.jpg

The bottom of the legs need something to keep them from doing the splits under load. There were a few different styles, most having a simple chain, some a brace bar as used @ the top section of the legs & a few with a section of [ channel bolted in place. I was going to use the chain as it is a very easy add on but while handling the build I managed to snap one of the legs off. The legs are only glued @ the top. I was worried to cause more damage to the build so I decided to go with a brace bar type as this really strengthens the assembly.

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dscn7099.jpg

Now the gantry legs form a triangle both @ the top & bottom this really up's the load capacity of the gantry.

Time to add the hoist box & chains.

This step required some thinking as how to make everything match the reference photo. I want to make it as simple as I can to allow easy assembly once everything was painted.

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dscn7095.jpg

The chain is draped so that I had a 55mm U length @ the hook end & 80mm U @ the travelling side end. I chose this drape as it worked with the overall Biber set up. At the top a small section of wire is inserted in the corresponding top links. This is our attachment link, it allows easy assembly/disassembly to paint everything later.

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.The wire is spread & adjusted to match the width of the two gear shafts in the box.

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The chain assembly is slid between the beam & the cross shaft. Then it is inserted into the box & the two smaller shafts are inserted securing the wire link. Do not glue them in! Trim to fit.

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Raise her up, line up the box & beam, & there you go! Don't glue anything as of yet. The hoist box can be moved left to right to line up with your lift.

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Post time!

Ron Lebert24/04/2017 15:58:45
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2194 forum posts
5840 photos

The pulley end needs some attention.

.dscn7140.jpg

We need a keeper bracket, this prevents the chain from falling off the pulley.

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dscn7141.jpg

A section of L plastic is used.

Well I have to go out so more to follow!

Ronnerd

jimbo24/04/2017 18:13:53
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13277 forum posts
2497 photos

Hi Ron

Getting rather fragile now. All the hoists, chains and pulleys are so neat and must be very small.

Jim

Scottie - I think Ron's adjustable cutter is explained *HERE* on his Armoured Cab Merc build.

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