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Biber Midget Sub & Support Trailer

Scratching up a trailer for the Biber midget sub.

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Ron Lebert21/04/2017 14:36:36
2175 forum posts
5794 photos

John, so glad to hear that! As for Mickey he doesn't skip on safety. It's nice to be able to have a bit of fun here on MM, some of the sites I visit are so serious.

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Ron Lebert21/04/2017 15:27:02
2175 forum posts
5794 photos

Part 8

crane close up.jpg

Time to work on the brace bars. As you can see from this shot the upper section of the brace bars connect to a identical D bracket as the lower. The brackets are attached to the lower support spacer that we added earlier. From the photo the brace bars look to be @ a 45* angle, this info gave me my lower spacer location . When you don't have any drawings, careful study of the subject is very important to engineering the correct look/design.



The brace bars are made from 0.062" / 1.5mm rod. To help with orientation a line was traced along the top of the rod. This is important as it helps in placement of the bars.



To cut the bars the Lebert adjustable cutter was used. We need four lengths but cut a few extra for the scrap bin. The bars were cut to 38mm.



The difficult part of the bar construction is to get the locating slot in the very centre of the bar. We need a way to cut the slot parallel & square. We need some sort of jig. Looking @ my leg cutting jig gave me an idea. All I needed to do was but a second section of wood to the first using the saw blade as a spacer. Then drill a hole that the rod would snugly slide into the hole. The orientation on the rod line gives me a position relative to the blade & a line drawn on the jig. The height of the rod sets my depth of cut, 3mm.



The jig @ work. Only cut the one side for now.



The blade of the saw is thinner than the required slot of the D brackets. As you can see the slot is slightly off but that works in our favor. We need to widen the slot to match our D bracket.



Carefully sand the slot toward the centre of the bar. We need a 0.020" / 0.50mm slot to match our D's thickness. To cut the other end pull out the bar & insert it so the bar line is parallel to the jig line. Use your eye to make sure that the two slots will be parallel to each other.


Post time.

Ron Lebert21/04/2017 15:44:46
2175 forum posts
5794 photos

Part 9

The photo is slightly out of order.


With the leg D bracket being on a 10* angle it prevents the upper bracket being a true 90* angle to the beam. So the D's need to be set on a angle to allow everything to line up. To simplify this difficult task simply insert one of the upper D's into the top section of the brace bar. Orientate the gantry so it sits with the legs up in the air (on to it's back). Slip the a bar onto one of the leg D's then rotate the bar to the channel beam rotate the D so it's flat section locates onto the inner support spacer. Then add a bit of glue to the contact area. Allow to dry then locate your bars as needed. Looking @ the photo your bars should orientate as seen above.

I have to go out so all for now.


Scottie21/04/2017 18:38:02
5018 forum posts
743 photos
1 articles


​always a joy and an education to follow your work. Have you got the details on your cutter as to how you made it.


Stefan Blaubar22/04/2017 08:45:48
867 forum posts
666 photos
1 articles

Great progress Ron.

Loving the Lebert jig and all your custom tools :D Always fun to read and have a look at them. No need to comment your superb modelling skills... Beyond limits as always.

Oh, and how are the foxes? Must be out of the den frequently by now?


jimbo22/04/2017 11:24:34
12735 forum posts
2359 photos

Hi Ron

Very clever the way you solve problems. Cutting the slot is a perfect example.


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