|Road of Bones||05/01/2018 20:22:48|
3585 forum posts
Exquisite work, as usual! I have a hard time keeping up with the Jones, so my apologies for not commenting earlier, as your tractor is up to your usual exceptional standard
The work you have put into the PAK40 is also splendid- helps to have such a nice base kit to start with!
|Steve Jones 12||12/01/2018 15:07:01|
4098 forum posts
JR - Paul was perfectly correct. It is the mechanism to pull the front half of the front fender with the shovel up in the air for travelling purposes. When I get to that stage of the build you will see it in more detail.
Alistair - No problem my friend. You have had your hands full with that mighty dozer. AFV Club have always been a good manufacturer and their kits always fit so neatly
On to Section 9 and we deal with the leggy, long strutty, sticky out bits of the PAK40. There was a little PE to be added which added some nice detailing. I also replaced the hand rails with wire ones with my new Xmas toy
Life is so much easier with this tool as it is far more accurate and easier to use than a pair of pliers.
For those of you following Scottie's mighty M26 Dragon Wagon you will see Scottie is improving the detailing by replacing solid pieces of kit with more "3D" looking pieces to add depth and detail. I am trying to do this more and more in my models.
I have a specific way of tackling these issue's called the Drays Diagnostic 3D Depth Detailing procedures. Or better known as the "make it up as you go" process or "bodge it" detailing. Here is an example. Below are the rods with their fixings provided in the kit
What we need to do is create space between the rods and behind as well, to add detailing and depth to the model. As you know, as soon as I start to clean the rods they will look ugly and pitted. Also if I place a craft knife between the poles to part them they will split.
So plan B is to replace the rods with styrene rod and use PE fixings at each end. Ideally I would like to have used metal rod. I dont have anything like that on my bench but I am looking to rectify that in the near future. So this is the result
Not very good at all. The fixings on the left seemed to small and the fixings on the right seemed to large. So it was onto Plan C. This involved using the fixings from the original part and adding the styrene rods to these instead
So there we have it a solid piece of kit part replaced with styrene rod to create depth and detailing.
|Steve Jones 12||12/01/2018 15:07:33|
4098 forum posts
The rest of the leggy things went together well with no real issues. The only care needed was to make sure everything was set in travel mode. The instructions are very helpful with this (Clear and helpful instructions! Whatever next)
The other strutty thing was less detailed and the same processes were used
Thanks for watching
(For discussion purposes only)
|John Race||12/01/2018 17:04:29|
7183 forum posts
This is what you want, photo of course for discussion only.
That handle jig looks the dogs, I like the idea, as most of my kit handles break when i'm trying to remove them , that one I got from Trumpeter is no where as good as I hoped. The idea of a good cheap buy.
|Peter Day 1||12/01/2018 17:12:22|
6434 forum posts
Great to see some progress on the gun Steve. All too technical for me to comment further I'm afraid!
14256 forum posts
Well whatever you call it the scratching to create a more realistic level of detail does you proud and works a treat. "Them poles is ace "
|Sjors Greut||12/01/2018 18:35:56|
815 forum posts
You are getting there alright Steve!
6245 forum posts
|john hutton||12/01/2018 22:33:49|
4548 forum posts
Some very nice work on the Pak mate , scratch building bits as well as all that PE still baffles my old Grey matter, but you seem to revel in it , be warned though it can lead a body down some very dark tunnels . You could become the Led Zepp of the modelling world ZOSO .
|Mike Cartmale||13/01/2018 00:00:22|
492 forum posts
Caught up with you again and this beautiful build. That bottom flap, true it was hinged for travelling and if you look at the small square hole in the centre, that hooked over the protuding object above it on the upper plate. I do not know the correct name for the hinges, but the hinge swung as opposed to turning like a conventional hinge and that's how it was able to hook over the object/hook on the upper plate, and chains were used to hold it in place and hooked onto hooks on the inner face of the upper plate, phew! When an old modeller friend who was everything German started talking technicalities you sort of drifted off onto another plain, but some of it must have stuck.
The RP diamond is a great improvement on some of the items out there and is so easy to use.
Well cannot hang about chatting all day, you have work to do, and we all look forward to more.
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