By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Casting & Moulding

How to make a mould and cast resin parts

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Mike Cartmale12/01/2018 23:18:11
492 forum posts
357 photos


We have you, now you're oursdisgust.


you are welcome.

Cheers, MikeC.

Mike Cartmale13/01/2018 18:19:52
492 forum posts
357 photos

Because I had some casting to do today I thought I would take some photo's of the sequence and paste them here to to help those that are thinking of joining us on the dark side as John R calls it/us.kulou

Cheers, MikeC.


jimbo13/01/2018 18:29:09
14256 forum posts
2711 photos

Hi Mike

Great stuff. I never realised that plasticine could be used as the mould.


Mike Cartmale14/01/2018 12:55:57
492 forum posts
357 photos


Before you press the master part into the plasticine, put a smear of talcum powder over the plasticine, I forgot to add that - sorry to all those that now have a stuck master.

Cheers, MikeC.

John Race14/01/2018 14:28:29
7183 forum posts
1518 photos

Oh smile d


Rick Edens27/01/2018 14:41:02
775 forum posts
1939 photos

MIKE Excellent SBS I have always wanted to cast some 1/9 heads (as I paint busts ) so I could have some practice heads to try new ways of painting. My question is if I make the neck hole the pour hole can I also go off the neck hole to make the air holes? any ideas on how to successfully cast heads would be greatly helpful.


Mike Cartmale29/01/2018 21:17:07
492 forum posts
357 photos


First I am sorry for the delay getting back to you. And thank you for the kind comment.

As I described for moulding the wheel, push the master halfway etc etc.

Now the air hole(s) you could depending on the size of the neck measured across add a pour and air hole, but I would also add one from the top of the head curving around so that it forms a J shape and the whole if looked in cross section would look similar to this UJ.

So which way to mould the head, it is either the back of the head up to the ears is puched into the clay first and the first rubber pour goes over the facial features and once dry then the back of the head. Or it is half of the head from the side, but this will result in leaving the mould line down the centre of the face. personally I would go for the first option and in your scale make a master for the ears and plunge mould them as I demonstrated in my last series of photos. The small round holes would be about ear size in your scale.

Hope this has helped you out, but even if you just get the full face this should be enough do what you want for experimenting with painting methods.

Cheers, MikeC.

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Military Modelling? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!

Find Military Modelling! 

Email News - Join our newsletter

Love Military Modelling? Sign up to our emails for the latest news and special offers!

Latest Forum Posts
Are you a Facebook fan of Military Modelling?
Support Our Partners
Expo Tools July 14
HLJ February
The Airbrush Co Ltd (2)
Shopping Partners
Digital Back Issues

Military Modelling Digital Back Issues

Feature Articles
Photo and Build Features from our Military Modelling Magazine website members and contributors including lots of pages of articles from previous Military Modelling magazines.
Military Modelling Offers
3 Issues for 3 New web app for ipad
Social Media

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest