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Dragon 6901 DAK Pz.Bef.Wg.III Ausf.H

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Alan Moss 112/01/2018 21:01:55
14 forum posts
6 photos

Day 1 Got home early from work, no motorway traumas and Wallace and Gromit was completed and put away so I have had 4 hours undisturbed modelling.

I finally had the chance to break open the box and spread out all the sprues. As you would expect from Dragon, close to immaculate, no flash and nice hard grey plastic. There are multiple sprues marked up with the same letter (at least 3 sprue A’s to start with) so care is going to be needed making sure you have the right parts and as for wheels, there are more than you can shake a stick at. I can see at least 3 sets of drive wheels, a couple of sets of idler wheels and shed loads of suspension bits, this kit is going to fill up any serious modellers spares box.

Right let’s get cracking:

Step 1 – very simple, no problems. I just haven’t glue the Idler wheel hub into place, I am going to leave it free in case it needs tweaking when the tracks are positioned.

Step 2 – drilling the hole for part V64 is not very clear, there are actually 2 drill marks inside the tub. I used the left hand mark, looking to the tank front. I hope I have got it right.

Step 3 – An observation - I fitted parts S37/S39 before part S38, which was then a very tight fit, it’s probably better to fit S38 before S37/S39.

Step 3 – First grouch, the kit comes with the wonderfully detailed torsion bar suspension, which can easily be made fully articulated by sniping off some thin pins. THEN WHAT, cut one of the torsion bars away, presumably so the interior fits. Since I am going strictly ootb I didn’t investigate why and just followed the instruction but it’s just bad design!

Step 3 - Second grouch, on the left hand side of the lower body there are 2 drill marks just forward of the escape hatch the instruction clearly say drill the right hand one through, the left hand is shown to be used to specifically locate part V21 a return roller base. Go to sprue V, find V21. Guess what it’s also indented obviously designed to fit on to a small raised boss. Great so there’s no way to get the roller base located properly. Ah but, that cut off torsion bar, in the waste bit, yep found it. I drilled the hole in the sidewall out to take the torsion bar, likewise the roller base, hey presto, a nice positive location, the torsion bar sticking through the side wall can be cleaned up later. There are no instructions for the right hand side so I drilled the corresponding indent and use a bit more of the torsion bar to locate the return roller on that side.

Time for red wine, a smoke and a chill out will post some photos tomorrow morning, but its just a panzer III lower hull so far.

Mossy

Dave Ward12/01/2018 21:16:04
avatar
2713 forum posts
2704 photos

Mossy,

welcome to MM, I'm an expat Yorkie doing missionary work amongst the heathens ( Gloucestershire ). Dragon models - love them or hate them? I'm not a fan due to the multiple versions/options that are not clear in the notoriously poor instructions. I still have a few Dragons in the stash, and I've carefully gone through the instructions, and segregated all the 'parts not for use'. Often you find that the box ends up half empty ( I'm thinking of the M3 Half tracks ). Dragon were the market leaders for many years, but they seem to have been standing still, whilst other makers have caught up and passed them

Dave

john hutton12/01/2018 21:53:50
avatar
4310 forum posts
1705 photos

Hi Alan,

Glad to welcome you to the club . I have been attempting Military Modelling on here for 4 yrs i think, i consider myself a mediocre builder, but have only ever had support and advice from the gents that populate MillMod. So all i can say sir is crack on with the dreaded Dragon and will look forward to updates with piccies wink 2, as your build progresses thumbs up.

John.

Alan Moss 113/01/2018 06:15:38
14 forum posts
6 photos

Dave, John thanks for the support and comments, Dave I'm not an expat but a missionary, travelling into the heathen lands of Lancashire on a daily basis, despite 20 years work I haven't made a single convert yet, but still trying! 24,000 miles a year work travel with the pleasures of the M62/M60 daily.

Alan Moss 113/01/2018 06:19:12
14 forum posts
6 photos

Day 1 pictures

The crude fix for part V21 still to be cleaned up.

a crude fix still to be cleaned uo.jpg

One side of the lower hull, most of the suspension in place.progress end of day 1.jpg

Paul Middleton 413/01/2018 07:27:56
107 forum posts

Hi Mossy,

As the other contributors have said, nothing but positive waves on this forum. You've made a good start with this kit (Not tackled it myself), and are already ahead of the game in dealing with the failings of Dragon. as previously stated, most of the 'challenges' are from their policy of re-using sprues in as many different kits as possible, maximising profit. The instructions can be unhelpful, using symbols without explanation. Back in the day, my vocabulary was expanded rapidly by the Airfix instruction sheets which actually used English!

I look forward to seeing you progress with this kit.

Paul M.

Alan Moss 114/01/2018 06:47:38
14 forum posts
6 photos

Day 2 Step 4

Lower Rear assembly. Part V33 needs a number of features scraping away to allow the fit of part U7. Guess what when done, the 2 parts still don’t mate up, there are 2 bolts preventing it, off they come and guess what. they still don’t fit. With more judicious scrapping and sanding of part U2 the parts final fit together. I wondered if this was a case of sprues from different kits not mating, but nope both are marked PzKpfw III, a legacy fault?

Fitting Lower rear section, don’t forget to fit the idler wheel assemblies as they don’t fit afterwards.

Upper Rear assembly. 4 parts no location pins, just a vague diagram. I figured out an assembly sequence with the last panzer III that I built. My way is join U5 and U8, then add U6, when it’s all dry fit V12, this way uses the positioning of the fuel filler a guide to where V12 joins U8.

I also assembled the front upper deck (step 11) while letting glue set. I left off the headlights, again too fragile, at this point in the build. Simple and no problems.

Two tips I picked up from other blogs, drill out the exhaust pipes to thin the walls and get extra depth, towing brackets, leave the pin attached to the sprue they gets broken easily, use the shank of an appropriate drill bit to ensure everything is lined up.

Parts

2.5 hours build time.

img_0123.jpg

img_0126.jpg

Si Benson14/01/2018 08:52:16
avatar
3749 forum posts
937 photos

Looking good there Mossythumbs up

Si

John Race14/01/2018 11:52:08
avatar
6590 forum posts
1376 photos

Alan .

Sorry I'm late in on thisblush welcome to the forum .

Reading your posts is interesting, I have a love hate , more hate with all instruction !

John

Alan Moss 114/01/2018 17:27:08
14 forum posts
6 photos

John, welcome to the pleasure dome. Assuming I get the next step finished tonight, be ready for another rant at the Dragon, but building is soon to be suspended - I spy a jigsaw being readied!

Mossy

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