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Tips on removing details for PE

Aggressive PE kit calls for the removal casted details

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Lewis Mrotzek15/01/2018 16:38:36
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65 forum posts
47 photos
Afternoon Gents,

Hope the new year is treating you all well. Started a commission on a Eduard spitfire mk 5c, and have found there to be a fair amount of fine detail that has to be removed from delicate parts ie the cockpit. Coming from a figure and AFV back around I'm not to familiar with the art of the scale war bird. Any suggestions?
John Race15/01/2018 17:33:32
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6885 forum posts
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Lewis.

Hi nice to see you around again, I'm going to bump this one up hoping some one like Fernando or Alum will see it and be able to help

John

Lewis Mrotzek16/01/2018 01:12:05
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65 forum posts
47 photos
John,

Thanks for the friendly response, I'm just finishing up culinary school, one more week of exams... I also wanted to thank you for your great response on static grass awhile ago, very informative.

Lewis
John Race16/01/2018 09:33:59
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6885 forum posts
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Come on guys , any one with this experience can you help.

 

Lewis. your welcome mate , good luck with the exams thumbs up

John.

Edited By John Race on 16/01/2018 09:34:31

Moggeller, PhD16/01/2018 10:10:43
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10570 forum posts
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29 articles

Lewis

Don’t rush - use a new Swann Morton curved scalpel blade and scrape the surface gently after shaving carefully. Watch your fingers. Use a fine sanding stick where necessary. This preparation is the most important part. If you want to know more check out my Tiger Evolution blog - there’s a whole heap of info about super-detailing there.

HTH

Bill

Paul Eberle16/01/2018 15:11:02
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2673 forum posts
1709 photos

I most often use an X-Acto #17 Chisel blade. I have modified it slightly by rounding the corners just a tiny bit to prevent it from digging in. I've had the same blade for over 40 years. Just touch it up w/oilstone once in a while.PaulE

Dave Ward16/01/2018 18:34:11
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2806 forum posts
2845 photos

Lewis,

sometimes it's easier to replace the entire area with plastic card, or file the part, and skin it with card. If you're brave, a fine burr in a Dremel, and a very steady hand!

Dave

Lewis Mrotzek16/01/2018 23:22:49
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65 forum posts
47 photos

John- Thanks again for the bump…I know the 80’s are over hahaha…devil

Bill- Great idea on the curved blade, I’ve had a few them of stashed away waiting for their day. As for the Swann-Morton’s, I’ve yet to invest in one. Would you suggest the No.3 or No.4? Been in the market for a “pro” blade handle for a while, I recently ordered one from Green Stuff World, absolute garbage, it was broken before I opened it, luckily, they sent me a replacement, but it was worth no more then a spare blade, honestly such a bad product. Will make sure to watch the fingers, and yes I will check that out this weekend cool

PaulE- Very interesting’s, my initial thoughts were to use a chisel blade, but like you said, I was worried id just end up “Digging” out chunks at a time. I gave the #17 a search and its has smoother bevel then the chisel blades I have, you should take a snap of that next time you’ve got it out, I’d love to see it before trying it.

Dave- Thanks for dropping in, I’ve been thinking about implementing plastic card for a few builds now, just never have, What’s a standard thickness for 48th scale? Does it come in 8 ½ by 11? I’ve never bought it before. Ill be needing to buy some styrene tubes in a multiple of different gauges, so it gives me a chance to look through the “scratch” zone at the shop.

image.jpegAs you can all see, the cockpit has quite the amount of coloured and non-coloured PE. Does anyone one have any suggestions on a economical solution for plastic tubes? I literally need no more then 5mm at a time. Thee problem is they are all of a different gauge. Maybe stretch some extra sprue? If so which are non-toxic?

image.jpegGorgeous detail, going to try to gauzy the instrument panel to look like real glass.image.jpeg

The remaining details are carved into the piece….Talk about microscopic PE image.jpeg

Next hurtle, I’m thinking PaulE’s idea of using a chisel blade will work best here!

Cheers

Lewis

Dave Ward17/01/2018 08:32:59
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2806 forum posts
2845 photos

Lewis,

I use Slaters Plastikard **LINK**Thicknesses? Well, anything from 0.25mm to 2mm, 330mm x 220mm sheets. I also use Microstrip, and plastic rod.

They give a good, fast service ( at least in the UK ).

Dave

no connection with Slater's - just a happy customer

Fernando Nijhuis17/01/2018 17:58:48
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736 forum posts
619 photos

Hi Lewis,

Sorry for the late response, the guys have given you great tips already.thumbs up

I generally don’t use the fancy blades, a simple Stanley 1992 in a fixed Fat-Max handle does most of the removal for me, a no.11 blade for the more careful removal and a JLC saw for the larger chucks that need to go.

After the bits have been removed, I usually scape the area clean with the 1992 or use 400 and 1000 grit sandpaper.

You can use the PS sprues of your kit, just don’t make any contact with the flame (black smokekulou).

Dave has some great tips on the sizes, any of the smaller sizes is very useful in 1/48th.thumbs up

Good luck.

Fernando

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