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Tim Marlow18/03/2018 19:11:38
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1473 forum posts
1095 photos

Hi all

Agree with oils and Sansodor for washes. I too gloss the surface first for a pin wash. Another worthwhile trick is to dampen the surface with clean thinner first. It eliminates the potential for tide marks from the washes. It does take a little fiddling some times, and can clump a little when drying, but you can even that out by following up with a little more work....What I do is go back over the surface with a damp clean brush when the surface is pretty much dry, working downwards much as gravity does. It removes some of the wash and adds subtle streaks like rain washing. It evens out the clumps as well....

By the way, oils can mix well with Humbrol paint for dry brushing, and work well on their own for this.   W and N Yellow ochre light is superb for fading out dunklegelb used this way., gives it a real sun faded look.

Cheers

Tim

 

 

Edited By Tim Marlow on 18/03/2018 19:12:56

Dave Ward18/03/2018 20:08:27
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2920 forum posts
2994 photos

I make my own washes - I shave soft pastel of the appropriate colour, add a few drops of washing up liquid, then water. The wul breaks the surface tension, so the fine powder mixes withe the water. I apply over a gloss coat of varnish, allow to dry, then gently remove the excess with either a tissue, or stiff brush - then seal with a light coat of varnish.

You have to gauge the mix by trial and error - too thin, and it doesn't show up, too thick, and it won't flow, and it's a bu**er to get off ( especially in confined areas ).

The pastels are artists 'soft pastels', you can get a pack of 12 assorted colours off Amazon for around £4. OK, I don't think I will ever use the shocking pinks, but you can mix up any other colour you like - I scrape the side of the pastel stick with a scalpel blade, and a little goes a long way!

Dave

John Race18/03/2018 21:16:46
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7467 forum posts
1541 photos

Scottie .

Pm sent .

Thanks Tim ...... This is what I forgot to do this time. surprise Will remember that use for the yellow ochre.thumbs up

Dave .....Hi , yes I have just tried that, instead of the washing up liquid I used the IPA mix .I suppose I could seal with a matt varnish .?

Great to read what we all use and like, going to try more of these washes along with the oil. One I want to try is the drawing ink.

Thanks all

John..

Mike Cartmale18/03/2018 21:43:24
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559 forum posts
404 photos

Hi All,

I was just pondering this subject the other day. For years before the birth of pigments and washes/filters, we used to mix our own. This all came about as I was trying to get a bottle of filter to basically - filter, but what came out was essentially clear white spirit. Then of course it was got to buy another bottle. Then after just doing a check on the other bottles/jars, I thought dammit.

So I have decided that from now on I will revert back to mixing/making my own. I can remember when I could grow long hair, that mixing Humbrol matt black with white spirit did the filter job or the pin wash around all the rivets. W&N Burnt Umber was the favourite replacement, especially for obtaining a 'leather' finish.

The only thing we did not do then, or I should say the modellers I knew then, was to satin or gloss varnish, but then again most of the paints used were Humbrol or some brave soul delving into the gallon bucket of white emulsion to achieve a winter white over his Tiger.

So, that is where I am today, converted/reverted to DIY.

John R, I used W&N Silver printers ink sprayed directly through the airbrush without any problems onto a matt finish, and I would imagine there would be a slight problem brushing onto a gloss finish, I would be interested if anyone has tried this.

Cheers, MikeC.

John Race18/03/2018 21:51:07
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7467 forum posts
1541 photos

Mike .

An interesting post . thumbs up

John.

Tim Marlow18/03/2018 22:19:53
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1473 forum posts
1095 photos

Hi John

Just to clarify, it’s W & N yellow ochre light, not yellow ochre.....they are two different colours....

Cheers

Tim

SimonT19/03/2018 01:01:10
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11788 forum posts
9641 photos

Hi John,

I also make my own because

a) you can make it as strong or weak as you want in whatever colour

b) I'm from Yorkshire and can't see the point of paying for dirty thinners face 20

I use:

Tamiya thinned with x20

or W&N water based oil paint thinned with Medea

or W&N acrylic ink

Colours used are generally black or dark brown



SimonT

John Race19/03/2018 02:08:08
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7467 forum posts
1541 photos

Tim .... Cheers .thumbs up noted.

Simon ..... teeth 2 Thanks .

John.

jimbo19/03/2018 16:28:26
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14357 forum posts
2736 photos

Hi John

I hope you don't mind if I take your thread slightly off track. Has anyone tried the MIG Oilbrushers *THESE* are the things I'm talking about. Seen a few YouTube videos. They are much cheaper than tubes of artist quality oils but presumably contain far less. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Jim

John Race20/03/2018 20:04:41
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7467 forum posts
1541 photos

Of course not Jim.

I too had a look on U tube and watched Mig Jimenez explain the uses. They look very good.

Now with a choice of 40 differing shades you get a great choice, but do you think anyone would need a choice of that many ? I sent off for 4 oils at £ 2.79 for those 37 ml tubes , only wanted a black for lines etc. Maybe I should have gone down that route ?

John.

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