Russian 20-Ton Flatbed Railcar for 1/35 Eastern Front

Beautifully Produced kit in Resin and Brass & blogged

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LZ Models are a new manufacturer on the scene...

...making 1/35 railway kits in resin Russia - World War 2

Adam's 20 t Russian Wagon and T70s...

...the photo feature combining no less than 3 blogs! Russia - World War 2

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Marc	18/10/2010 21:14:41
1624 forum posts 1034 photos	Hi Adam! Yes, Yes, looking great, that brake assembly always needs figuring out! But looking good, it should be easy from now! But we will watch... and appreciate! Regards, Marc
Dale E	19/10/2010 00:54:00
1043 forum posts 509 photos 2 articles	Adam, amazing work!!! This 'ol rail car is really something else bud. Dale
Adam Kuller	19/10/2010 06:39:46
7254 forum posts 6034 photos	~Tim~ Thanks Buddy --you are just too kind True though that the maker of this kit made every effort possible to create the best kit possible--no doubt of it ~Jaymes~Hey that's much appreciated--gettin it togethr now-ya ~Marc~Yes,serious figuring out-- actually pretty fun to build once you have an idea whats where and all--Thanks for all that ~Dale~Thanks Bud--good to see ya! We'll see what happens. Back soon with more ADAM
Bob M1Carbine Holmstrom	19/10/2010 07:27:01
960 forum posts 1263 photos	Adam - looking awsome. THe resin detail in remarkable and Im looking forward to seeing more of this.....................POST MORE PICS MAN! Bob
Adam Kuller	20/10/2010 01:07:04
7254 forum posts 6034 photos	BOB~! --LOL-' OK Im on it! Going back to work on it right now AK
Adam Kuller	22/10/2010 22:16:55
7254 forum posts 6034 photos	~Brakes Complete~ OK-there it is with the brakes, linkages & air system in place--Easy right ! Well......took a little work to get there, and a lot of looks at various references, and not having an actual photo of this particular system on this particular model railcar was no help--along with not knowing exactly what the modelmaker had intended---but I find out there was alot of variation--practically every car was different!---so comparing the parts in hand , with available photos, and drawings of simiilar systems... (And a good bit of help from Libor) .here's how I got there a bit more step by step : Botttom control arms we're attached and allowed to pivet at chassis beam--'actuator piston is' used to get spacing and placement of styrene support beam.(There is a 'pin' for attachment on the bottom of piston to guide placement and provide attachment point. The 'piston' in place--these can go really anyplace on the linkage and are found in different places in records--though few museum pieces have complete systems still. And then the top control arms we're attached--with the center bolt lined-up with the chassis rail to indicate a pivit point. Next the two part 'switch' is placed at the outer rail, nearby as is the 'air cylinder' (or air storage tank) with it's 2 P.E. hanger straps(i) I replaced the 'safety hangers' in appropriate spots using the kit supplied brass wire At this time I also added some 'cast texture' to the caseing of the 3-way switch as I've noted on surviving examples using a little Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer and a little stippling action. (Need a little fine sanding still here to cut the points of) Here's another angle of all of that : ~Continued~~ Edited By Adam Kuller on 22/10/2010 22:18:56
Adam Kuller	22/10/2010 22:17:49
7254 forum posts 6034 photos	So here I've added air lines from brass wire, as well as a straight line down the entire length of the chassis, (ending on the left side) made of the 1.2mm styrene rod. A lead was made from the switch to the long run (this could be syrene as well--but I used brass) to a "T' made from drilling a hole in the side of one of the kit air-line connectors Other leads we're fitted from the cylinder to the switch, and from the switch to the piston, with the (0.6mm wire) (it was a guess as to which spot on the back of the switch was which --but there are 3 correct-sized receptors for the 'tubes') there is a small hole we're the small wire (0.4mm)'switch controler' connects and this runs to the other side of the frame and is bracketed by P.E. later. And there it is !- -Still to add to all this : The brackets that secure the airlines to the chassis, the 8 safety hangers that hang below the brake arms, the brackets for the switch controller and those footholds that hang below---------- Thanks Gents for reading along---I'll be back shortly with the rest of that & thanks greatly for sharing any thoughts your having at this point Adam BONUS READING ~~ In case anyone's interested in what all these components do and why they are needed details on a model of a working railcar (of most types)--naturally much research is needed same as all things we try to model well. Here's how they worked: The mechanical brake system on each car operates via mechanical linkage from the brake cylinder on each car. This cylinder activates by air pressure from the service reservoir on each car, which was initially charged from the trainline (brake pipe). This air application in turn is controlled by the triple valve on each car, which does one of three things, depending on the pressure in the brake pipe. In all three cases, the triple valve is comparing the brake pipe pressure to the reservoir pressure. If the brake pipe pressure is higher than the reservoir pressure the triple valve moves to the RELEASE position. If the brake pipe pressure is lower than the reservoir pressure the triple valve moves to the APPLY position. If the brake pipe pressure is equal to the reservoir pressure the triple valve moves to a neutral or LAP postion If there is nothing in the reservoir (i.e. the air has been bled off), then there are no brakes; no air pressure to apply the brakes. Trains are very typically assembled in the yard without any brakes used except the locomotive brakes. Once the train is assembled and all hoses attached and valves opened, then the system is charged with air. This can take 10, 20, or even 30 minutes on a long train, to fill the train line and all the reservoirs on all the cars. Some yards have shop air compressor air piped to yard tracks to pump Edited By Adam Kuller on 22/10/2010 22:32:36
Adam Kuller	23/10/2010 04:55:12
7254 forum posts 6034 photos	Gentlemen~ One more long run at the underside of this 20t and I've got the underside details in place! ~ 8 'safety hangers' need to be bent to a loose shape using P.E. parts (c)--specific shape is not critical as these differed too and were of cheap steel & often in poor shape. ~Getting everything into place has gotten pretty challenging at this point--For me, it gets too easy to knock-loose parts already attached as you get near finished with others So it's a matter of patience & re-do's until everythings placed. Most of the brass parts I did not aneal as I often don't like them too easy to bend (and add unwanted x-tra bends to them) but some parts ,like these air-pipe-to-chassis brackets I anealed before bending all at once over a piece of suitably-sized drillstock with my straightedge. This worked pretty nicely. Here's everything in place! ~Everything includes the 'V' shaped footholds on the under-chassis stanchions and those small brackets in place. Here it is from the 'Left' side and The 'Right' ~~There's actually a good amount of detail to be seen from all angles So that's about all the building strictly underneath---though there are 12 complex P.E. brackets that attach all along the outher bottom edge to secure the stanchions--more on those coming up-----and likely the last thing I may add is the air connector that hanges proud of the car at it's ends. ~As always....It's my pleasure to bring you this update and let me know what you think so far Adam Edited By Tony Dill 2 on 23/10/2010 13:33:29
VI	23/10/2010 09:00:49
2663 forum posts 992 photos	Hi Adam, Very nice work on the breaks, it's a shame you can't display it up-side-down. Cheers VI
Ross Moore	23/10/2010 10:39:56
3962 forum posts 1408 photos	Adam Nice amount of work there, a really complete job as usual. cheers Rossco

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