Italian Captured CMP Ford F15 Camionetta

CONSTRUCTION COMPLETE~ !!

The doors & door handles are now attached--the jerry cans in place just for show

The last thing I've added are the nice clear resin headlight cans---oh and the classic Ford Oval---which is difficult to spot in period photos, but after studying everything I could find, I've found this emblem on either the grille itself or above as I have it, or missing altogether. You can also spot the horn, mounted behind the bumper.

I have some more accessories to ready---but that's IT---next up....

PAINT

{Prior to painting........}

Here's a good way to paint the headlights when they show as clear parts I've applied liquid mask to the lenses to keep them all covered up throughout the entire painting proccess. I just draw it on with a toothpick as it will wreck your brush.

Here you can see the Vallejo mask looks very different after it kicks off! After it's dry I've painted the rest of the light can with a light-toned metallic--in this case Citadel Chainmail---this will become the metal interior of the can later after paintwork is done.

and here's a SHOCKER....................PRIMER is ON

.I've used my old favorite Tamiya Fine Surface Primer in the CAN--

A few little hairs & blips to clean off, but we are on the road to PAINT

As usual it's a great pleasure to bring you this update --I hope you've enjoyed it

Adam

Thats a mean but functional looking beast Adam. Great job on the build, very neat and crisp as always. Now let the magic begin

Pete

Hi Adam

does that VJ mask come off easily? - i have a bottle but of course not used it but it looks to set solid rather than the old rubbery maskol

Trucks looking very nice in primer

SimonT

Pete~ Thanks! Happy if it's looing alright at this point [wink]

Simon~ This Vallejo has become my liquid mask of choice--this one says it's 'resin' whereas the others I've used at length [W&N , Liquatex & Miskit] are as I'm sure you know, simply watery latex, and they will both rub loose easily[ but not easily at all on porous surfaces]. The Vallejo = as you say does dry more solid, and I find stays put better, but removes more reliably as well----usually in one chunk , as opposed to being stringy, or clumpy
. In any case, I find it's better to apply as thickly as possible,as thin applications are much more difficult to grab and remove. Any help?
Adam

Thanks for that Adam

SimonT

Hi Adam

Looks superb and a credit to your patience and skill - not forgetting Libor of course. So on with the paint - Yippee!! Whilst the construction part of this has been fascinating and your blogging style is great the painting part, for me, is always the best. I am really looking forward to seeing you work your painting magic.

Jim

Always love the look of primed stuff! Thanks for the tip about the liquid mask from Vallejo. What happened tp Winston & Newton liquid mask? I brought it after following your British & German desert diorama thread years ago but I still haven't used it. LOL

Cracking build old lad and blogging,allways informative ... Looks sweeeet in Tammy XF !

Didnt realise how open that mesh was to the rad on the front,can see quite a bit through it but guess the rad hides most ... What will you do a/brush it all in shadow ? Gotta be carefull when sprayin the base cote then though eh bud ?

Carlos

Greetings Adam,

Oh Boy Howdy!!!!! It's got primer!!!!!! I love how it makes all of that wonderful detail pop!

I need another bag of popcorn.

Dave